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View Full Version : need advice on skirting..



greensnib
19-08-2006, 02:46 PM
I am about to fit new skirting boards
Internal corners are what I am unsure about.
Should I cut Internal miter angles or should I cut the profile
of the skirting into one end?

any advice would be greatly appreciated!

steve07951
20-08-2006, 12:01 AM
profile . if u mitre they hardly eva fit unless u use electric mitre saw

paultefc1975
01-09-2006, 02:46 PM
i cut the profile into one end for mine!

berley
01-09-2006, 04:18 PM
in my opinion they look better if you mitre them but at the end of the day its a personal choice

notanotherone
01-09-2006, 08:11 PM
i get a joiner in who does it all for me lol cause even though i can do most things myself me and a saw are not the best of friends

den456
09-09-2006, 05:42 PM
cut profiles works a bit better if walls are out of square. use a coping saw too cut profile..

richbeno
12-10-2006, 04:46 AM
you can use both,make sure you mitre saw is cutting square though.i normaly scribe the internal joins,cut a mitre this gives you the pattern to cut off .

Skinwalker
14-10-2006, 11:34 PM
I am with the profile crowd, one very rarely find perfectly square walls, though if you use an angle finder and split the difference that works well, but setting up an unusual angle on the mitre saw can be a pain.

Not_much_cop
16-10-2006, 09:08 AM
I mitre join all my skirting etc and never have a problem.

I do however have a special mitre block set, which has a angle finder, which you use to measssure the angle then lay that on top of the mitre block, adjust till the mitre block and angle finder are the same then insert skirting/dado etc and cut away. Hey Presto a mitre join that is perfect for the corner.

If I remember right only cost me about ?30 from B&Q, but one of the best things I ever bought.

A BIG tip though, make sure you have a very good, sharp saw! There is nothing worse than having a slightly blunt saw, because you will never cut a straight line with a blunt saw. Also never use a cheap saw, unless you are willing to fill and paint the skirting. I prefer pine/natural skirting and so cant affort to have any gaps or mistakes in mine.

Might take a little longer but if the job is worth doing, it is worth doing only once.

NMC

withnail
22-10-2006, 07:11 PM
if you mitre an internal corner the mitre will open as the wood shrinks and seasons, probably not by much, but thats why the scribe joint is traditionally used by joiners.

as said by a poster above, make a 45 degree cut and use the cut line as the template for your scribe

missdaw
24-10-2006, 10:33 PM
It's called a dummie mitre, 45 degree cut through the molded section, 90 degree cut through the flat section, then use a coping saw to remove the profile from the 45 section.

Before you cut the 90degree cut through the flat section you might want to use a square off-cut up against the piece of skirting you are about to butt into, saves any ugly gaps. :)

tazz67
26-10-2006, 08:11 PM
in my opinion they look better if you mitre them but if stuck get a joiner in

mburns
19-11-2006, 09:01 PM
I am a joiner, depending on what type of skirting/profile im fitting, i sometimes mitre them other is scribe.

When fitting square mdf skkirting, i just scibe internals and mitre externals.

Tools Req-
1 Sharp Saw or 1 Chop Saw/Mitre Saw
1 Coping Saw (for cutting profiles)
1 Combination Square & Pencil (for marking 45 angles)

Also might be a good idea, if painting the skirting white or a colour apply a small amount of painters chaulk along the top edge of the skirting, stops any cracks appearing along after painting

snakehips
07-12-2006, 11:21 PM
Personally i think it all depends on the material that your using. If your using 18mm Mr mdf or standard mdf shrinkage is very slight. Therefore cutting an internal mitre looks far better. Plus if it is mdf that your using you will now doubt be filling and painting it. Using builders cork down the top back edge usually takes out all the transparency in undulating walls (as most old house have p*sed walls) For fixing i would using Grip Fill and no other of these so called super bonders. Grip fill still seems to be the best. When fixing back cut loads of small battens amd brace them to the floor at 45 degree angles every 400mm or so until it goes off.

If your using softwood, make sure you pre knot if first as it will bleed through any paint you subsequently apply. Internal mitres are dodgy here as shrinkage is apparent...especially after a month or so after the timber has dried out in your house / flat. So would recommend after fitting, leaving the filling until the shrinkage has stopped. Then cork / paint and fill away. Again grip fill is adequate here and the timber is very pliable.

If your fitting hardwood skirting make sure there are anti curl grooves in the back as it will peel itself off of the walls. Natural hardwood when machined say to 18mm boards will bow like a b*gger, so fixing should be done wilth grip fill and perhaps screwed and pelleted too. Mitres can look the b*llox on this when done with a good cross cutting chop saw. Worth hiring one for the price of the solid timber yyou would be using.
Hope this helps! (whoops...i feel ive rambled on lol)